Right now I’m reading the novel Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts. While it’s a pain to lug around (it’s a hefty 944 pages and I’m only on page 423) it’s completely gripping. On one hand it’s a tale of redemption, of an escaped convict who turns his life around while living in the slums of Bombay. But on another level, Shantaram is also a fine piece of travel writing. While the story is fictional, it is based on Roberts’ actual experiences in India. His lengthy description of the Indian head nod (in all its nuances and variations), as well as his account of trying to get onto a crowded train, had me laughing out loud and thinking, “That is so true.” When it comes to describing the heart of India, Roberts has done what few travel writers can achieve- he really got it.
When we were recently in
Monterey, the weather was more London-like than California, so we
headed to the Monterey Aquarium. My favourite
parts? Definitely the otters (they're so cute!) and the massive
tank which is home to dozens of tuna and a white shark as well as
a bizarre, prehistoric looking sunfish. I was hoping for a
glimpse of a massive great white shark to get me
sufficiently freaked out before I went swimming in Miami but the
shark was on the small size. The jellyfish tanks were also
impressive, and I love this photo of them.
On Bank Holiday Monday, I
decided to play tourist and booked tickets to see the State Rooms
at Buckingham Palace. But since our entry wasn't until 3pm, we
needed to eat beforehand- so I made a reservation at Inn the Park.
This restaurant is definitely worth a stop. The design is clean
and contemporary, and its located right in the middle of St.
James Park so you can just about see the top of the London Eye
peeking over the trees. There was a BBQ happening somewhere (we
could smell the smoke) but we opted for the summer menu, and
tucked into grilled trout and corn fed chicken, all washed down
by a crisp glass of Prosecco. Desserts were a big hit but I
needed help translating the names (ie Knickerbocker Glory = a
sundae).
When I was in New York last month, I checked
out the new Greek and Roman galleries at the Metropolitan Museum of Art,
which were stunning. Here is a detail of what I believe is a
sarcophagus. And don't let that steep entrance fee put you off
visiting the Museum. Its only a suggestion- you can actually pay
whatever you want. But do try to give what you can.
When we managed to tear ourselves away from
the beach near Estepona in Spain, we stopped in the town of Ronda
en route to Granada. So what makes Ronda special? For a start,
the city is divided in two by a massive gorge. A "new" bridge was
built in the 18th century to connect the two areas. Ronda is also
home to modern bullfighting, and we checked out the local
bullring (but didn't see any bulls or matadors. Fights are only
held in September). Legendary Rondeño
bullfighter Pedro Romero created modern bullfighting when he
broke away from the prevailing Jerez school of horseback
bullfighting in the 18th century, and created a style of
bullfighting where matadors stood their ground against the bull
on foot. Romero was immortalised in a portrait by Goya (and often
alluded to by Hemingway in The Sun Also Rises, one of my
favourite novels). I would love to come back in September,
when Ronda hosts the Goyesque Fair, where
matadors are dressed in traditional 18th century costumes.
And before I start getting hate mail from
fans of Leder Chic, here is a lovely photo of sand dunes just
outside of Swakopmund...
While we were
in Namibia we
spent a few days exploring the coastal resort town of
Swakopmund,
otherwise known as “where Angelina Jolie gave birth to
Shiloh.” The city
has retained a lot of its German heritage, most notably in the
architecture and the pubs- every third bar is called a Brewhaus
and we were intrigued (mystified? Disturbed?) by the oh-so-common
presence of oryx schnitzel on many a menu. It was also in
Swakopmund where were introduced to Jaggiebombs, Jaegermeister
and Red Bull and noticed that its perfectly acceptable to wear
safari gear out to the local pub. There was also a disturbing
trend of men wearing extremely short shorts when they were out on
the town but that's another story”¦We are also tickled pink to
discover this store in the heart of Swako, called simply Leder
Chic. We didn't have a chance to pop in as our trip coincided
with a bank holiday so everything was closed, but we can only
imagine”¦
Last week I went back to Boston for Thanksgiving, and forced my husband to
experience the phenomenon known as Black Friday. So for the
uninitiated, what is this vaguely sinister sounding event? Not to
be confused with Black Monday, the crash of the stock
market, Black Friday is traditionally the kick off to the
Christmas shopping season. The story goes than alarmingly large
number of Americans head to the malls while the sane people stay
home and munch on leftover turkey and pecan pie. As I only had a
limited time in Boston- and
had plenty of shopping to do- we braved the queues and headed
to Boston
to do some serious shopping.
To make life easier, and prevent my husband from having a
meltdown, we stuck to two malls, Copley Place at the Shops at the Prudential Center. I was
surprised to see how upscale Copley mall has become; it now has a
Jimmy Choo, Louis Vuitton and a Barneys outpost. After we
finished up in the mall (or mwall) we ventured outside for some
fresh air and to check out Newbury Street. I also popped into the new and improved Filene's
Basement. Unlike the original one in Dowtown Crossing, this new
glossy one isn't located in a basement and doesn't have giant
clumps of dust blowing like tumbleweed across the floor. It was a
bit crowded but I spotted racks of Tory Burch, Dolce &
Gabbana and Yves St Laurent. Go Filene's!
Thanks to the always fabulous and
well-informed ladies at Daily Candy, I read about the China Power Station exhibit being held at the
Battersea Power Station. It sounded amazing so a
group of us booked tickets to go yesterday. Yes, in the pouring
rain. I didn't realize that the station doesn't have a roof.
Later my husband asked me, “What did you think all the warnings
on the website about bringing waterproof clothing were all about?
Ummm, I dunno, I thought there might be some exuberant exhibits
which involved spraying water on visitors? So
the only water was from the clouds but the concept was quite
cool: London's
Serpentine Gallery has taken up residence in the power station
and is presenting an exhibit on Chinese culture. After a brief
tour inside the atrium (if you can call it that) of the building,
you're lead upstairs to see a series of video installations. For
me, the two best parts of the exhibit were being able to tour
Battersea Power Station- this is the first time the building has
been open to the public, before it becomes transformed into a
retail and housing complex- as well as a visit to the on-site dim
sum restaurant by Yauatcha. We sampled some
delicate green tea, assorted dim sum and of course finished it
all of with dessert. I had a chocolate and violet mousse and my
friend went for a strawberry cake (the men pretended not to be
interested in our desserts). Now if only all museums had food to
match the exhibits, I think I would be tempted to go more
often.
Finding a very
good restaurant in London
is always a tricky thing. Pay too little, and
risk disappointment; pay too much, and well, you might have to
rethink those pair of shoes you fell in love with at Kurt Geiger. Last
week a group of us wanted to book a celebratory dinner and I was
put in charge of finding a restaurant (yup, the pressure was
on!). Based on its impeccable reviews, I chose Sally Clarke's
in Notting Hill. It was one of the best meals I've had in
London. The menu is
French-Californian and Sally is also famous for her breads, which
are sold in Harvey Nichols, Selfridges and Fortnum & Mason.
There is one set menu with just four choices as everything is
fresh and seasonal, and sorry, you're out of luck if you are
vegetarian. We sampled the salad of white nectarines with toasted
cobnuts, landcress, Parmesan shavings, chives and balsamic
vinegar; warm buckwheat pancake with crab, smoked Irish organic
salmon and crab-dill dressing; and for the main, roasted leg of
Welsh lamb with tarragon aioli, Surrey beetroot, fennel, carrots
and Umbrian lentils. For dessert there was the super gooey and
rich warm dark chocolate pudding with caramel sauce and toasted
almonds. At £39 for three courses, the price isn't bad but what I
loved about the food is that the tastes were fresh and lively
without being fussy, and the service was attentive without anyone
hovering over you. Hats off to Sally Clarke's- we'll definitely
be back.