­Tuna is a complicated word in Mexico. On the one hand, tuna is the Spanish word for a delicious cactus fruit. On the other hand, Tuna is also the name of the newest restaurant from Chef Richard Sandoval  where the food is all about fish (and fusion), not fruit.

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Opened in September in the Polanco neighborhood (the Beverly Hills/5th Avenue of Mexico City), the concept behind Tuna is to bring together elements of Asian cooking with elements of Mexican cooking. A particularly successful example of this unlikely culinary combination is the restaurant’s Chinese tacos al pastor. This dish takes the traditional Mexican ingredients for this ubiquitous type of taco (pork, pineapple, pickled onion, cilantro and pickled chilies) and ditches the tortilla in favor of a “shell” that has the...