In Helsinki, there's a lot to love that's new. Young designers, gleaming glass architecture, and innovative spins on Finnish cuisine top out the list. But the Finns still have a strong appreciation for the the past””a good thing, given said past includes the cheeriness of Marimekko prints, sophisticated buildings by Alvar Aalto and Eliel Saarinen, and a culture where chilling out at the sauna is de rigeur. And because Finland was part of the Russian Empire until 1917, it's coloured with Neoclassical architecture that may remind one of St. Petersburg.  When I arrived at Hotel Kamp, then, I was pleased to find this happy mix of old and new, traditional and modern.

Built in the late-19th century, the Hotel Kamp was the first luxury hotel in Helsinki. Among the lavish features that impressed guests back in 1887: a lobby with a richly decorated, pillared staircase, a lift to carry guests from one storey to the next, and Venetian glass chandeliers. The owner, restaurateur Carl Kämp, ran the business for just one year. He died suddenly in 1888. His widow took over for two years, and then the hotel operated under several subsequent owners. Now part of the Starwood Luxury Collection, the grand hotel has been updated and renovated, and a new restaurant and nightclub are now part of the package. The hotel spa has also undergone a makeover and is slated to open in mid-April.

Hotel Kämp has 179 individual guest rooms, all of which have been completely refurbished while retaining the original character of the hotel. Luxe marble bathrooms are equipped with long soaking tubs””complete with the rubber duck””and separate walk-in shower. Turn ”“down service with slippers and Finnish chocolates comes standard. My spacious Deluxe room was furnished with a king size bed, topped with a fluffy duvet and super-soft white sheets. I spent several hours working from my in-room desk, but I could have done it in the business centre downstairs, which features an oversized desk, ergonomic seating, and international power outlets.

There are several specialty suites. Each has its own character and is named after prominent cultural figures in Finnish history. The most lavish is the Mannerheim Suite. Overlooking the Esplanade (a tree-lined boulevard in the center of the city), it consists of a private dining room, study, sauna, kitchenette, two bedrooms, two sitting rooms and two private balconies.

Whether your view is from one of those private balconies or from the lobby doors””on a side street steps away from the Esplanade””you will notice how convenient this location is. Helsinki's best shopping””including stores for Artek  and Iittala, Finland's own furniture and design companies, and three (yes, three) Marimekko boutiques””is less than a five minutes away, as is the harbour. Tack on a few more minutes and you are at some of the city's best restaurants, including Kuurna and the Michelin-starred Chez Dominique

A word of advice: plan ahead and make reservations. Shops close by 6 on Saturdays, and almost all are closed on Sundays. Restaurants book up quickly, and many are closed Sundays.  Thankfully, the young concierge managed to find several options for me, including the lovely Kämp Café (open Sundays). It has the look of a grand European café, but recently got an update that gives it a modern twist (several chandeliers, for example, are draped in sheer fabrics). My server recommended the Arctic Char””a local, salmon-like fish--that was lightly fried and served on a bed of green vegetables. Fordessert, I opted for the plate of artisanal cheeses accompanied by dried apricots and walnuts.

There are a few things I wish I had done differently. I wish I got a chance to go to the hotel's second restaurant, Yume (closed Sundays). Chef Hirokazu Kamijukkoku combines Japanese and Scandinavian cuisines to create modern, inventive fish dishes that change with the seasons. Also, I would have dragged a few friends along to take in the nightlife with me; the Club Kamp, located on the second floor, is a posh venue for champagne sipping and cigar smoking. I was especially impressed by the décor””a perfect mix of contemporary elements like crystals and low banquettes set against a backdrop of original architectural details. And while I loved the cold, clean February air, my next trip will be in the summer, when I can see how Helsinki gleams with nearly 20 hours of daylight. And that's when I'll be able to people-watch at the Kämp Café & Bar terrace””located along the Esplanade and open only during the Spring and Summer months.

Rates start at 264 euros.

Hotel Kamp
Pohjoisesplanadi 29, 00100
Helsinki, Finland
Phone: +358 (0)9 576 111

www.hotelkamp.fi

www.starwoodhotels.com

New York-based Sofia Galadza writes about interior design for Contract magazine and has written for Conde Nast Traveler, Time Out New York, 360 and Four Seasons Magazine.