It's easy to make believe you own a
particularly attractive and well-positioned Nice apartment when
you stay at the Palais de la Mediterranee. Each of the 188
rooms has outdoor space perfect for an evening aperitif or
breakfast, ranging from somewhat modest balconies to the immense
terraces that come in one of the 12 suites (the largest, Suite
927, has a 538-square-foot terrace). Either
way, just opening the doors to your own private glimpse of the
Baie des Anges (book one of the 92 rooms with a sea view)
provides a sense of the bien-être for which Provence ”“
though not necessarily the small but bustling city of Nice ”“ is
so well known.
The soft sea breezes are a good
counterpoint to the activity in and around the hotel and its
casino, which were originally built as an Art Deco pleasure
palace in 1929. After falling into decline in the 1970s, and
being threatened with demolition, the Palais de la Mediterranee
was taken over by the Taittinger Group in 2001. The owners spent nearly
120 million Euros and three years renovating it, and the results
are appealing. Though they took pains to preserve the original
character ”“ there are some wonderful Art Deco muse bas relief
figures on the façade and hotel workers are quick to mention the
many famous cultural icons who have stayed here (Josephine Baker,
Maruice Chevalier and Edith Piaf among them) ”“
the hotel's structure and amenities are
entirely 21st century.
The service is polished, and
the concierge Vincent was a cheerful and helpful presence during
our recent stay, advising about non-touristy restaurants, to good
effect, and suggesting private museum tours.
Sybille de Margerie, the designer behind the Hotel de Crillon in
Paris, has outfitted the rooms in color schemes of gentle
coppers, yellows and sky blues. The rain head shower in our
well-appointed bathroom had enviable water pressure, and we
appreciated the double sinks, fluffy yellow towels and Annick Goutal
toiletries.
After a relaxing shower, we checked out
the collection of CDs (mostly jazz and classical) the hotel
thoughtfully left in our room, made a café on the espresso maker,
and contemplated the sea view from our balcony. Had we wanted to,
we could have used the free broadband connection to check out
email, but we opted instead to check out the swimming pool on the
third floor, the heart of the hotel.
Fully heated, the half indoor-half
outdoor pool is surrounded by chaises longues and is open all
year. The third floor also has a small but attractive fitness
room and a sauna. The pool is enticing, but the glamour factor
was somewhat reduced by a bevy of splashing youngsters. Still, we
relaxed on the chaise longue, and enjoyed looking out on the Baie
des Anges.
After a swim, head to the
very chic, Indian-inspired Pingala Bar, also on the third floor.
Decorated in warm purple fabrics and African and Asian woods,
it's a Niçoise version of Paris' Buddha Bar, with
a fashionable crowd of locals and visitors, and excellent
martinis. The bar also serves lunch on the terrace, and a light
bar menu at night.
The real dining experience, though, is
at the hotel's Le Padouk restaurant, which is decorated with
green, orange and blue floor mosaics and handsome padouk wood
(usually used to build boats) on the walls. In the summer you can
eat ”“ as we did ”“ al fresco, alongside the pool. Chef Bruno Sohn
has a deft touch with the region's legendary seafood and produce,
and we thoroughly enjoyed the cannelloni of lobster and crayfish,
with peppers and chanterelles mushrooms, and the locally caught
fresh fish served as a filet with local spices, Niçoise
olives and Provençal cepes. We paired it with a local
wine from Olivier Bettati's estate, looked up at the stars, and
hoped we'd be back.
Rates start at 280
Euros
Palais de la Mediterranee
15 Promenade des Anglais
Nice, Cedex 06011
France
Phone: +33 4 92147700
www.lepalaisdelamediterranee.com
New York-based writer Jackie Cooperman has covered
culture, travel, gastronomy and design for publications including
the Financial Times, Women's Wear Daily, The International Herald
Tribune, Worth, Town & Country and Departures.
