Perfection in Granada

Submitted by Christina Valhouli on Mon, 2007-07-23 13:24.

Most people would say that being a travel writer is a dream job, but sometimes I have to disagree. Being the boyfriend/best friend/spouse of a travel writer is the better gig because it means you get to have all the perks (travelling and staying in fab places) without any of the downsides (taking notes and writing things up). That said, last weekend I was the happy recipient of a brilliantly planned weekend that I didn't have to organise- and it was so good I just have to write about it.

My husband put together a four day surprise trip to Spain and has scored big, big points. We spent a few days at the contemporary Selenza hotel just outside of Estepona, where we swam in the sea, feasted on grilled sardines at the beach, and got pampered at the spa, which also had a Thalossatherapy Centre. So what does that mean? They basically have a massive in door saltwater pool with a gazillion different jets, and the proper way to experience it is to follow their program of jumping from steam room to icy plunge pool to a eucalyptus scented steam room. By the end of it, I felt that all the previous night's sangria and all those other toxins had been flushed away. Warning though: you'll feel really goofy wearing the hotel's regulation issue bathing cap, but at least everyone  else has to wear it too.

Then after a brief stop in Ronda, a city that is split in two by a dramatic gorge,  it was off to the city of Granada, where we holed up at the Casa Morisca, a beautifully restored 15th century townhouse. The restoration was so thorough that the hotel won an architecture award (of course it helps that the owner is also an architect). The simple, lovely rooms have views of the Alhambra Palace, and it was just a short (but steep walk away). Weirdly enough, we noticed that Granada had a huge goth population (I have never understood how anyone can be a goth in a hot weather climate but apparently Florida has one of the highest goth populations in the US, so there you go).

Goths aside, some of our favourite finds were the Bodega La Mancha near Plaza Nueva, a decidedly old-school kind of tapas bar. The interiors were tiled, smoky and full of old men sipping wine. One wall was covered in huge casks of wine which were the same size as some of the men, and we tried out the Spanish omelette and olives, washed down by plenty of sangria.

Once we got our fill of traditional Spanish tapas, we went to the lovely Restaurante Carmen Verde Luna (Camino Neuvo de San Nicholas No. 16, Phone 958 29 17 94), located high on a hill near the Church of St Nicholas with stunning views of the palace. Book ahead to secure one of the best tables, and don't even think about showing up before 10pm. We started with an amuse bouche of beet mousse, and then shared a plate of grilled shrimp marinated in a tangy lime sauce, before moving on to grilled lamb and seared tuna served with a yogurt foam. After eating all that food, we rolled down the hill and back to the hotel, happy, content, and relaxed, and hoping to come back to Andalucia again soon.