Only a six-minute drive from the well-trafficked Raleigh-Durham International Airport in North Carolina, the Umstead Hotel and Spa is the last thing you'd expect to discover, sited alongside the sort of leafy campus drive that typically skirts the suburban phenomenon known as the office park. And yet, a spa and resort it is””happily turning its back on the encircling roads to create a self-contained property that clearly yearns to keep close to its literal roots: The grounds were once part of the nearby William B. Umstead State Park, and the woodland theme is reflected in everything from the artwork adorning the walls, much of which takes its cues from the natural world, to the animal-centric, kid-friendly section of a well curated boutique, kitted out with stuffed raccoons and cooing toy birds””one of which is presented to every young guest. 

Open only since January, the Umstead has already hosted celebrity clientele like Christina Aguilera, Billy Joel and Elvis Costello””a fact that nods both to the hotel's proximity to the area's main entertainment arena (the nearby RBC Center) and to a dearth of competition: The Umstead is the first hotel in the state to earn a five-diamond review from AAA. The luxe overdrive is evident from the fawning service at the door and the obvious attention paid to the hotel's art collection, with a piece by the internationally exhibited glass artist Dale Chihuly””perhaps most famous for his show-stopping work in the entry hall of London's Victoria & Albert Museum””given pride of place. It's especially dramatic at night.

The Umstead has 150 guest rooms and 27 suites, many of which overlook the property's three-acre lake. My studio suite didn't, but the gargantuan size of the bathroom more than made up for the second-choice view: It was huge, and, though it wasn't, felt like it was almost as big as the generously proportioned room itself. All that square footage provides space for a deep-soak tub and an extra-large shower with its own bench, plus double vanities. A considerable amount of natural light, filtered through translucent windows, was a nice touch. 

The rooms themselves are genteelly, if a bit cautiously, decorated, all soothing neutrals and Rivolta linens. The Umstead splits its attention between business visitors and spa guests well, with the former likely benefiting from a surfeit of telephones and an efficient, not-extortionate wi-fi system throughout the hotel. (It's $10 for twenty-four hours of access.) My companion and I found the inclusion of two 42-inch plasma TVs (each with its own CDDVD player), situated within perhaps twelve feet of each other, a bit confounding for use without headphones””which, in any case, necessitated a proximate viewing experience not actually enhanced by the size of the screens. 

Spa guests, meanwhile, have the choice of in-room treatments or services in the ground-level spa, with the usual array of private and couple rooms, plus a spa suite for up to six. (I'd recommend the age-defense facial to anyone, but especially those who've just spent the last few hours in the withering, oxygen-deprived confines of an airplane.) Spa products include Sothy's and MD Formulation, but keep an eye out for new treatments using the latest addition””the fantastic Red Flower line, with individual products already available for sale in the spa boutique. 

The hotel's main gift shop is an attraction in itself, as it's fabulously stocked with both the basics and didn't-know-until-now essentials. The usual hotel boutique suspects are all there””Aleve, Diet Coke, a smarter-than-usual selection of magazines””but it makes its mark with one of the region's best, if smallest, selections of clothing and accessories, with a nice range of Oliver Peoples sunglasses and a fantastically thought-out choice of comfy yet luxurious clothing. There's cashmere sweaters from White + Warren for the plane ride back home and uber-flattering dresses from Susana Monaco for the unexpectedly dressed-up event; the jewellery selection is quite good, with clever pieces from local designers like the Raleigh-based Jessica Thomas. There are also several smart choices for gifts for the kids, plus even nicer presents for mom and dad, specifically in the form of North Carolina wines, hand-blown glass birds from Finland, and earthy, rather commanding ceramics from Ben Owen and Mark Hewitt, whose work is exhibited throughout the hotel. 

Clearly, the Umstead takes its art seriously, with a wide-ranging yet cohesive collection curated by Leah Goodnight, daughter of Umstead owner Ann Goodnight. Potential buyers are provided with a guide to the several dozen pieces installed throughout the building””all are available for sale through the boutique, which seems to be developing a split personality as an art gallery. The interest isn't purely commercial: Goodnight recently debuted a series of lectures with local artists, with an upcoming edition to feature a floral designer whose efforts are currently on view in the hotel. 

Even the hotel restaurant, Herons, serves to showcase artwork inside””and the property's lake outside, with a view of it from a fabulous terrace that makes the most of its lovely surroundings. The open kitchen makes "modern American with a regional influence", so think Carolina-produced ingredients and locally farmed vegetables, including herbs from the on-premises garden. My favourite? A breakfast, on the terrace, of melted bourbon waffles with syrup and Georgia pecan butter, plus some gorgeous berries””a carb-aholic's nightmare dish and absolutely delicious. And a rare, good thing””to discover such a decadent menu at a hotel with such a serious spa. As with its tranquil setting so close to a bustling, hassling airport, the Umstead clearly takes a certain pleasure in exploring contradictions. 

Rates start at $349.

The Umstead Hotel and Spa
100 Woodland Pond
Cary, North Carolina, 27513
Phone: (919)447-4000

www.theumstead.com

Diane Vadino writes for magazines including Nylon, Marie Claire, and ID from her base in Brooklyn. Her debut novel, Smart Girls Like Me, was published in autumn 2007.