Count on Diana Vreeland to perfectly sum up a city. When she famously said that pink is the navy blue of India she could have easily been talking about Jaipur. Located in Rajasthan, this pink city is a magical destination, with its colourful bazaars, and monkeys and elephants clamouring for road space among the street vendors and taxis. Jaipur is also one of the best shopping cities in India, as it's famed for its jewels, and the craftsmanship of its silver, blue pottery and hand-blocked textiles.

But before you set off to start shopping, a few words of caution. All of the guidebooks will steer you towards the three main markets””Bapu, Nehru, and Johari””and breathlessly exclaim that these markets are where Paul Smith/Designers Guild/Donna Karan buyers come to purchase textiles. While the markets are certainly worth a look, we didn't find anything remotely up to designer standards as the textiles were mostly tie-dyed and more appropriate for a Grateful Dead tour than Madison Avenue. Each bazaar is about a city block long and visitors can scoop up cheap silver earrings by the bucket load- but at the end of the day it's just costume jewellery. Why come all the way to India to buy something you can get at Accessorize? You're not going to find true craftsmanship in an outdoor bazaar. Serious shoppers need to go to one of the city's more upmarket stores, such as Gem Palace, Amrapali or Hot Pink. You'll pay more, but it's worth it. And be careful of taxi drivers offering to take you to stores. They are almost always working on commission. And ladies, thanks to the dry desert atmosphere of Jaipur, you'll enjoy day after day of good hair days- no frizzies here but remember to bring a super-rich moisturizer or a face oil as well.

Amrapali
Although you may not have heard of Amrapali, you have seen the store's jewels on the silver screen. Nicole Kidman has worn Amrapali to the Oscars, Naomi Campbell and Tom Cruise are fans, and Brad Pitt wore its gold hammered jewels in the film Troy. But even if you don't want to look like a Greek warrior, there's plenty to choose from here. Downstairs is where shoppers will find silver bangles, cuffs and necklaces, as well as strands of semi-precious jewels, and turquoise earrings. Upstairs is where the show-stopping stuff is kept, from massive chandelier earrings to wedding-worthy necklaces. There are also Amrapali stores in the Rambagh Palace hotel and the jewellery is sold in Selfridge's as well.

Amrapali
Panch Batti
M.I.Road (located across the street from McDonald's)
Jaipur 302001
Phone: +91 141 2377940, or 2362768

www.amrapalijewels.com

Miss India
If you're looking for reasonably priced silver jewellery, ranging from bangles to cuffs and earrings, pop into Miss India. Located across the street from Gem Palace, the store has a utilitarian look but the atmosphere is calm and shopkeepers don't pressure you to buy. The silver is sold by weight, so items such as intricate bangles and photo frames will be the priciest.

Miss India
M.I. Road (located across the street from Gem Palace)
Jaipur 302001
Phone: +91 237 1214, or 510 1111

Gem Palace
If you only have time to visit one jewellery store in Jaipur, make it Gem Palace. This legendary boutique can count Prince Charles, Goldie Hawn, Susan Sarandon and Bill Clinton among its famous clients. Jewels are displayed in open top cabinets and Gem Palace sells the most western friendly designs. Top picks are bold chandelier earrings, semi precious drops, rings and gigantic pieces which are replicas of the maharajahs jewels. Expect to pay roughly $170 for a little ring with semi precious stones' $240 for gold and topaz drop earrings; and $400 for a necklace of cut peridot drops. Gem Palace jewels are also sold ar Barneys in New York and Los Angeles, as well as Aspen.

The Gem Palace
M. I. Road
Jaipur 302001
Phone:  +91 141 2374175, 2363061

www.gempalacejaipur.com

Hot Pink
When it comes to clothing and accessories, Hot Pink is our top pick in Jaipur. Opened in January 2005 by French jeweller Marie-Helene de Taillac, the boutique is located on the grounds of the Narain Niwas Palace. The interior is a mix of white washed walls and vibrant colours, including (of course) hot pink. The shop carries a well-edited selection of silk cushions, gossamer silk scarves, caftans and tunics in modern designs. Local designers stocked include Manish Arora and Neeru Kumar. Top tip: If you get hungry while shopping, stop for lunch at the Narain Niwas Palace. It has a faded grandeur but the food is good.

Hot Pink
Narain Niwas Palace
Jaipur
Phone: +91 141 510 8932

Neerja
Jaipur is famous for its intricate blue pottery and many of the pottery stores are clustered along Amber Road. Most of the guidebooks will direct you to the massive Jaipur Blue pottery centre, where Bill Clinton allegedly shopped, but we found the quality of the pieces to be inconsistent. Our favourite place for blue pottery is Neerja, which had a nice selection and best of all, the staff lets you browse in peace without any pressure. Note: In the C-scheme area streets are labelled A,B,C etc. so C is the third street back.

Neerja
S-19 Bhawani Singh Road
C-Scheme Extension, Bais Godam
Jaipur 302001
Phone: +91 1 238-0395 or 141 238-3511

www.neerjainternational.com

Anokhi
Looking for beautiful hand-blocked prints in a contemporary style? Head to Anokhi, which has stores all around India. The designs are modern and western-friendly (meaning if you bring home a stack of cushions they won't look out place). Anokhi sells beautiful bedspreads, cushions, saris and tunics.

Anokhi
2 Tilak Marg, opposite Udhyog Bhawan, C-Scheme
Jaipur
Phone: +91 141 222-9247

www.anokhi.com

Soma
Soma is one of our favourite stores in India. If you're a fan of Lily Pulitzer's bold prints or Williams-Sonoma's Provencal-inspired tablecloths, then you'll go nuts here. Soma has a wide selection of hand-blocked items, ranging from little makeup bags and tote bags to tablecloths and bedspreads. Everything is reasonably priced which makes it an ideal place to stock up on gifts for others.

Soma Shop
5 Jacob Road
Civil Lines
Jaipur 302 006
Phone: +91 141 222 2778

www.somashop.com